A week in London museums : National Gallery, Victoria & Albert Museum

During the art market seminar led by the Sotheby’s Institute of Art in London, I enjoyed my time in the city going to (some of) the most famous museums of the world. Here is what I thought about them.
Going to museum is one of my favorites activities. As I went to many exhibitions and received advanced education in art history and museum administration, I have developed a <modest> expertise on the topic, putting it to service for the blog as I discuss my tour of the Queen’s house, the National Gallery and the Victoria and Albert Museum.
Last week, as with four of my fellow classmates, I went to London to attend the Sotheby’s Institute of Art Seminar. Introductions classes on the different aspects of the art market and in-the-field trips – yes but not only; as artist studio visits, Sotheby’s auction house tour and gallery hopping ended we made sure to enjoy London as much as we could. Our travel plan was busy and we might have exhausted the London cultural must-seen. Today, I propose a brief recap on the 4 museums I have been to, which are very much classical art-history oriented as my specialism in this field focuses on European paintings from the seventeenth century: The Queen’s House, the National Gallery, the Victoria & Albert Museum and the Wallace Collection.
The Queen’s House, Greenwich
This first venue, I admit, is 100% nerdy. Let me introduce it to you. The Queen’s House was built by Inigo Jones for Anne of Denmark in 1616. Inigo Jones is this very famous British architect who imported classical architecture, which we call “Palladian architecture” from Italy to England. As the matter of fact, the Queen’s House is the first building built in this style as Inigo Jones just came back from his “Italian grand tour”, an initiatory trip in Italy and Europe for gentlemen and artists.

What was the reason for this new building you may ask, well I learnt on site that the lands were given to Anne of Denmark by her husband, King James Ist, as an apology for he had sworn to her face after she accidentally shot his dog. There was no recording on whether the dog survived, which is a shame, yet that’s how the place was erected. However, Anne of Denmark died shortly after and the finishing touches were brought to by Henriette-Marie.
Now, she is the reason I went to the Queen’s House. Henriette-Marie is Henri IV and Marie de Medici’s daughter, which makes her, you guessed it, Louis XIII sister. She was Queen of England as Charles Ist spouse but mostly a highly educated lady in sciences, astronomy, a political figure of the 1650 english revolution and a brilliant patron of the art. In the 1630s she ordered beautiful ceilings for the Queen’s house to Italian masters Guido Reni and Orazio and Artemisia Gentileschi. Charles Ist, not to be left out, had also ordered a ceiling to Jacob Jordans, a Flemish painter of those around Rubens who was close with the King.
So I went to Greenwich on Sunday, where the Queen’s House is. It was a one-hour bus trip through South London then a one-hour-and-a-half trip back to the hostel, only to realize: there were no ceilings !
The Gentileschis’ ceilings had been taken away to some other castle by some other queen who reckoned they were quite beautiful – I bet ! While the Jordans’ had never seen the light of day since Charles Ist had been beheaded before they were completed. The last remaining original ceiling from Henriette Marie’s time showed refined Renaissance floral motifs framing a central painting supposedly by Guido Reni … which had been removed for a bland eighteenth century allegory.
So this was a disappointment. All the more so that, as the Queen’s house hasn’t been inhabited by a royal figure since 1650, the English revolution, the beheading of Charles Ist and the flight of Henriette-Marie back to France, the collection compelled by the French princess and Queen of England was scattered to other properties of the Crown. As a result, it lacks the grandmaster’s pieces ordered to decorate those walls.
Not to be worried, the place is very well decorated, mostly by B-list painters yet one can even spot a beautiful Gainsborough (*famous British painter from the eighteenth century, specialised in portraits) and some Tudor family portraits (*English Royal family before the Stuart, amongst Tudors are Henry VIII, Elizabeth Ist, who was the last Tudor on the throne – amongst Stuart are Mary Stuart, Charles Ist) including a copy of the “Armada Portrait” of Queen Elizabeth Ist, made and named after the victory of the English navy on the Spanish Armada. Indeed, the Queen’s house displays a lot of marines and sea-related works from the fifteenth century to the Normandy landings as it was home to the Royal Hospital for Seamen in the late eighteenth century.
The display of artworks, as it also is in some of the other museums presented in this article, is mainly decorative – instead of complentative or educational. Hung too high, poorly lighten and subject to unsolicited reflection of light, the paintings weren’t displayed to favor their careful study and beloved delectation. Yet the Queen’s house remains a very pleasant place to stroll and wander around and I appreciated the emphasis put on some, relatively new, topics addressing feminist questions, migratory concerns and queer issues both through contemporary acquisitions and the mediation on older works.
The National Gallery, Trafalgar Square
I passed on the British Museum, I know, it might have been expected, yet couldn’t resist the National Gallery. As a matter of fact, I went twice. The reason for that is simple: every day of the week the seminar ended around 4 p.m. when most museums in London close before 6 p.m.. With the addition of the bye-bye moment, last catting and the transportation time we are left with a very short moment to visit those diverse collections. I had to make a choice and a strategic choice was made: I needed to be selective and to go straight for the seventeenth century paintings.
Entering the National Gallery was quite a weird feeling for the French visitor used to Parisian museums I am. Right after the security checks, you walk through a gigantic stairs only to be thrown directly among the paintings. No big halls, no mazy corridors to give you the time to get in the mood: straight to it. And now you have to make a choice: two wings, two lists of painters. On the left: Titien, Poussin, Rubens, Van Dyck, Van Eyck, Rembrandt […] – on the right: Vigée le Brun, Van Gogh, Manet, Gauguin […]. So if you know me, you know: I went to the left, twice. I was on a quest and it did not disappoint.
First room displayed a series of portraits which selection was a bit off-putting as it brings together paintings both from Italy (the marvelous Portrait of Gerolamo Barbarigo by Titien – the fancy man with the big blue sleeve) and Northern Europe (Van Eyck Ambassadors which, small tips, you have to watch from the right, as close to the frame as possible to see the skull with its right proportion).

Moving on to a green salon full of Venetian artists – plus a little Leonardo and Michelangelo but my unpopular opinion is I don’t like them so much, and the art (over-) stimulation begins. As I then moved to the Rubens room, Rembrandt one, Danish scene paintings, I noticed this painting, and this picture catches my eye and everywhere I look is even more appealing and exciting. So I’m here going crazy in my head and hopping with joy from one painting to another, let me just present to you my top #3 favorites.
In third place goes Delilah and Samson by Rubens, painted in 1609-1610. It has always been my favorite from this artist, I love the depiction of the abandonment of Samson on the knees of Delilah, his sleep engendered by seduction, trust – and wine. Funny story: I always mis-say the name of Delilah, changing it for Dalida.
In second, I must place Rembrandt’s supposed portrait of Hendrickje Stoffels, his second partner, made in the mid 1650s, hence at the very end of his career. I had never questioned their age difference which, when I think about it, might be a tat concerning, yet the portrait is an absolute masterpiece of humility and dignity, majesty and intimacy, a beautiful tribute to her.
My grande favorite … tatata … drum rolls please ! The Saint Sébastien made by Gerrit von Honthorst around 1623. Now, Gerrit von Honthorst is a little less renowned than big masters, some would even say the art monsters that are Rembrandt and Ruben. French call him “Gérard des nuits” [Gérard of the nights] after the nocturnes he did. Von Honthorst is part of this little trio of painters, Hendrick ter Brugghen, Dirck van Baburen and him, the Utrecht Caravaggisti. All three of them were trained in the workshop of the same mannerist painter (*an old weird way of painting, overly elegant, overly refined), they all went to Rome around 1610, discovered Caravaggio painting, loved it and brought some of it to Utrecht, their native city in the Netherlands. As a twist of fate, van Baburen and ter Brugghen died a couple years after (1924 and 1629). This school of painting, as short as it may have lasted, as little its production is, is, I believe, my favourite movement of art history as a whole. Very briefly, I love how vivid the colors are, how pure the lines, the forms. Their compositions are brilliantly efficient – meaning they are simple yet they evoke so much. I adore the plasticity with which the human body is rendered and the subtle precision of the anatomy. See the Saint Sebastien of von Honthorst and the congestion of his forearms due the restraints. It is a masterpiece – but like, in an easy-going way.
The Victoria & Albert Museum
Going to the Victoria & Albert Museum was another bus adventure. As I mentioned, museums in London are closing quite early, except for some that have late openings on fridays. That is the case of the Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A to their friends, which we are !): it closes at 10 pm on that day, a perfect opportunity for me to go ! I waited for the bus for quite some time until I gave up to go take another one, walked a bit, met this cute french couple who was also going to the V&A museum, chatted with them then we finally arrived at South Kensington.
History recap : the V&A was founded, as the name suggests, under Queen Victoria and her husband, Prince Consort Albert, in 1852 to be precise. What is less known is that it was erected in what was at the time a working neighbourhood of London with the intent to educate industrial workers and develop their taste in applied and decorative art. The long-term goal of the Crown, represented by the museum director Henry Cole, was to develop England industrial production and improve English design on the international market to make the United Kingdom shine during International exhibitions – the place to be of the time !
This legacy still lingers within the display of the Victoria & Albert Museum. On the ground floor, art works are presented in a very immersive fashion, curated to render their functional purposes – as they were during their time of use. Hence an orthodox cross suspended in the air, floating above the visitors, fences to separate sacred spaces, a gigantic ottoman rug laid on the floor. On the first floor, colourful stained-glass windows are lightened from behind in an otherwise dark gallery. Such display of works generates a dreamy atmosphere, a vibe, quite favorable to amazement, conversation and, dare I say, would make it a great date venue.
I wandered around in amazement for museography (*fancy world to talk about how the artworks are displayed and the galleries organized) for quite some time, enjoying the way visitors could walk from the Greek and Roman antiquities area to the Islamic arts space to South Asia, China, Japan pieces very easily has these areas were all adjoining one another, breaking the artificial walls put up by a compartmentalized history of art. To explain it in a clearer way, the organization of the rooms in the V&A made me think about the “Galerie du temps” [Time’s gallery] of the Louvre-Lens where as you go from front to the back of the room you advance in time but when you go from right to left you change the place of provenance of the works, you move among the different cultural regions of the worlds.
Regardless of how brilliant the display of the works were and how pretty the pieces, I was on a quest to find the seventh century Flemish paintings I adore. I walked back and forth, turned left and right, encountered a few closed aisles, climbed stairs to the second floor multiple times and asked different agents of the museums for information – only to come to the conclusion the departments for European arts were all closed.
Needless to say: I was upset! Yet, after a quick detour to the museum shop – which by the way occupies a place of choice in the visitor route, I found my good spirit again and went to enjoy some Islamic art which I always find so rich and beautiful.